The newly redesigned Beverly Hills restaurant modernizes the dining room and brings a fresh take on Japanese cooking as it plays down its tasting menu and adopts an Italian course structure.
The first responsibility of any great restaurant is to keep you in the bubble, the soft-serve cocoon of illusion where you forget the world exists for anything but your pleasure. And the newly redesigned Spago, from the moment you toss your keys to the valet to the moment you stagger back out again, gives good bubble.
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